Record rain in Colorado this Spring

Spring in Colorado often brings heavy precipitation and cooler temperatures. Under these conditions, spring lawn care can be a little bit trickier. However, a little lawn maintenance can go a long way in the spring. Turning off sprinklers, keeping your lawn mowed, and removing clippings are all important to maintain the health of your grass. With all this natural moisture, there’s no need to water.

Turn Off Your Sprinklers

In times of heavy precipitation, the first thing to do is turn off your sprinklers! Let Mother Nature do her thing and keep your lawn nice and watered. There is no reason to be one of those people who has their sprinklers going in a rainstorm. It’s wasteful, and it’s not very good for your lawn. Overwatering, while fairly difficult to do, can lead to problems in your lawn. Patches may start dying, weeds can become overgrown and start crowding your grass, and fungi can start growing in overwatered lawns as well. By simply turning off your sprinklers during weeks of heavy precipitation, you can save your lawn a whole lot of trouble!

Keep your lawn mowed

With all this wet, cool weather, grass grows tall very quickly. However — your lawn is healthiest when it’s shorter. Mowing tall grass down allows it to grow thicker and filled in more. When grass grows tall, it becomes sparse, and the root system doesn’t dig down into the earth as deeply, causing it to be less efficient in the hot summer months looming ahead.

When mowing, wait for a break in the rain and get out there. Adjust your mower up so it will only mow off a third of the grass blades at a time. If you cut too much off at a time, it will shock the grass and cause it to die. For especially tall lawns, you should mow every 2 to 3 days, cutting off about a third of the length of the grass blades until it stands about 2-3 inches tall.

Remove excess clippings

After mowing, make sure that excess clippings get raked off of the sod. Lawn clippings can end up smothering the grass, or add to the thatch layer (the organic matter at the bottom of the grass leaf before the dirt and roots start). If the thatch layer gets too thick, it can end up blocking water and air movement to the roots and lead to excess water runoff. When this happens, it makes it very difficult for your lawns root system to access water no matter how much you are watering. By simply removing excess clippings in the wet season, you can keep your lawn from literally blocking itself from receiving water.

Utilizing the Wet Season

Following these three simple tips in the spring can make a huge difference in your lawn. Turning off sprinklers during times of heavy precipitation helps prevent overwatering. Mowing encourages grass to grow thicker instead of tall and stringy — creating a strong root system that will withstand the heat of the summer. Removing clippings allows the healthy flow of air and water to the root system instead of creating a wall of decomposing matter that prohibits water from reaching roots and can cause your yard to dry out. Keeping up with your yard in the spring will set you up for huge success when the summer heat kicks up.

No more of those pesky dog spots! Are you a proud owner of a furry friend? Then, you may be noticing some brown spots forming in your lawn where your dog likes to relieve itself.

High concentrations of nitrogen

This phenomenon is caused by the acidic nature of urine, which contains high concentrations of nitrogen present in the ammonia component of your pup’s potty. Female dogs cause more damage because they squat to do their business in one concentrated area. This nitrogen can be good for your lawn when diluted. You may notice around the brown spot there is a green ring. The nitrogen in the dog’s urine causes this dark, green ring of accelerated growth. A dramatic contrast of color between the lawn and the dog spot is a visual indicator of the need to fertilize the lawn.

Keep your yard healthy

Not to worry. There is a quick fix to solve this vexing issue! After Fido has gone to the bathroom, water that portion of the lawn for a few minutes or dump a bucket of water on the area. This causes the nitrogen to dilute and has a positive effect on your lawn.  Another trick is to fertilize often. Use less fertilizer, but increase the frequency that you fertilize to once every 4-6 weeks. Fertilizing keeps your yard healthy and allows the injured grass to bounce back quicker, giving your lawn that lovely green color! When you start implementing these lawn care strategies, you will quickly see a difference in the lawn.

How to fix

If your lawn is already plagued with these dog spots, cut out the brown area and patch with new sod. Re-sodding the brown areas is the quickest way to fix this issue. You can also take a 4-6 inch knife and slice into the brown spot multiple times, targeting the areas close to the green section. By cutting into the ground you will be breaking up the root system, specifically the rhizomes from which new plants grow. This allows the healthy rhizomes to reproduce and create new, green grass where Fido browns it.

Now that you know what to do, go tackle those blasted dog spots!

Soil preparation or soil amendment is the most important step in growing a healthy lawn. Without the proper conditions in place, even the finest sod will have a tough time establishing a good root system.

Till in compost before sodding

Soil prep is essentially tilling compost into the ground. Compost is important because it helps the soil already present hold water, be it sandy or clay. In Colorado, our soils are more clay based, meaning that they are very tight and compacted. By putting in compost you are breaking up the solids and infusing organic matter into the ground. By creating space in the soil, there is more room for root growth, gas exchange, and water movement. This allows the plant to get water and essential nutrients more easily. If the root system can grow to its maximum potential, the grass can fight off disease, insects, and be more efficient overall.

How to prepare the soil

You may be wondering how one performs proper soil prep. Well it all begins with the grade! Level the soil to the point where there are no low areas that may collect water to avoid puddles. After you have tackled the grade, evenly spread 3 to 5 yards per 1,000 sq. ft. of the compost over the desired area. This makes the next step, rototilling the compost 6-8 inches deep much easier. It’s important to maintain that depth so the grass can establish a deep and efficient root system. After tilling in the compost, pack the soil back down and fine grade your lawn. The last step before final sod installation is to spread some fertilizer on the soil to add nutrients and give your sod a kick-start in developing strong roots.

Open up clay soil

Don’t forget that the most important part of the plant lives underground! Soil prep opens up clay soils and allows the water to flow into the soil more easily and closes up sandy soils preventing water from draining away too quickly. By giving the soil some attention you can create an environment that will allow the lawn to effectively access the water and nutrients and have a healthy yard.

Even plants deserve a special treat every now and then; indulge your lawn to a night out on the town by fertilizing right before a rain or snow storm!

Snow perks up your lawn

Although you might view these spring snow storms we’ve been experiencing as a drag, your lawn could not be more grateful for the free drink! All the natural precipitation helps your lawn’s root system grow deeper into the ground. A strong and deep root system allows your lawn to withstand higher temperatures and drought conditions with much more ease. If you want to see even better results in the months to come, let your lawn have the full fine dining experience by fertilizing right before a precipitation event. Fertilizer contains all of the essential nutrients your lawn needs to thrive, and water actually activates the fertilizer and allows it to penetrate into the soil. So by fertilizing right before a storm, you allow mother nature to help those added nutrients really soak in.

Snow has a lower pH than most water

Not only does the extra precipitation help your water bill, but the rain and snow is better for your lawn than treated water. Natural precipitation has a lower pH, which helps release nutrients into the soil. This makes it easier for your lawn to absorb nutrients from the fertilizer you put down before the storm. Rain water also has a higher level of nitrogen than treated water. Nitrogen is one of the main ingredients in fertilizer. So it gives the sod an extra kick! Precipitation also provides an extremely even watering and makes sure that the entirety of your lawn is taken care of and no spots have been left out.

Create a healthy lawn

It’s important to thicken up your lawn in the spring instead of during the heat of the summer. This really helps the root system grow deep into the ground. That way, the sod has better access to ground water and nutrients further into the soil and can withstand drought conditions more easily. A thicker and healthier lawn also crowds out weeds, meaning less lawn work in the long run! Creating an extremely healthy and durable lawn starts right now — with Mother Nature’s help. For a healthy lawn all summer long, treat your lawn to dinner and a drink!

Underneath the radiant green of your lawn lies a thriving ecosystem of its own teeming with life, the root system! Every type of grass is unique, with different seasonal growth habits that affect the top growth, or leaves, that you see above ground.  Root systems vary just as much as the top growth, allowing some to be more efficient at extracting water than others. Cool-season turf grass, such as our Kentucky bluegrass, Tall Fescue and Texas hybrid bluegrasses, grow roots in the spring, making this the best time to push root growth. With some well-timed lawn care in the early spring, you can help your yard grow a deep root system that will help save water in the hotter months to come.

Stimulates root growth in your lawn

Begin the season by applying a well balanced fertilizer that contains near equal amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen drives overall plant growth and phosphorus stimulates root growth and devolvement. Both of these nutrients are important in helping thicken your lawn and grow deep roots. As with all fertilizers, read the label and apply the appropriate amount. Too much fertilizer will over stimulate the top growth and divert the plant’s energy from the roots.

Aerate in the Spring

Spring is also the ideal time to aerate your lawn.  Aeration helps loosen the soil, which increases the rate and depth that water can move through the soil. Additionally, aeration helps to reduce thatch. Thatch is a tightly intermingled layer of living and dead stems, leaves, and roots which accumulates between the layer of actively growing grass and the soil underneath. Excessive thatch forms a spongy mat layer at the surface of the soil, which can make it hard for water and air to get through to the roots, resulting in weak grass.

A little water goes a long way

Proper watering during the spring months also encourages a strong and healthy root system.  The goal of watering is to get the water deep into the soil and then allow the soil surface to dry before watering again. Irrigation requirements are much less in the spring so you can spread out the frequency of your watering. Be sure to keep your sprinkler clock off when you are not watering and to turn it on only when another irrigation cycle is needed.

By fertilizing, aerating, and watering in an efficient manner, you can create a healthy lawn with a deep root system that can stand up to even the harshest of Colorado’s conditions!

Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier against crabgrass germination

Pre-emergent herbicides can be useful in maintaining a healthy lawn. Herbicides can be categorized as either pre-emergent or post emergent. Post emergent herbicides are applied to the foliage of weeds that are already growing and are visible in your lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier in the top inch of the soil and prevent emerging seedlings.

Crabgrass likes heat

Pre-emergent herbicides are most effective on annual grassy weeds like crabgrass, barnyard grass, and goosegrass. Crabgrass creeps in where the soil heats up earlier in the year and where the edges of the lawn are exposed. Colorado homeowners often experience crabgrass infestation adjacent to sidewalks, patios and hardscapes.

Stop crabgrass from germinating

A great way to combat these grassy weeds is to apply a spring application of pre-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides can be purchased in liquid or granular form. In granular form, many pre-emergent products are combined with fertilizer. In Colorado, the best time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide is March to early April before grassy weeds germinate. It is best to aerate prior to applying pre-emergent so the chemical barrier is not broken. Due to large swings in temperature during late winter and early spring in Colorado, grassy weeds start appearing in March and April. When conditions favor earlier than normal crabgrass germination and you have missed pre-emergent application, use a post emergent herbicide to eradicate crabgrass. Post emergent applications for crabgrass are most effective in the early or juvenile stage of weed growth. Be sure to spray when the temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

When your grassy weed problem is limited to border areas of your lawn, consider a 3 foot band application of pre-emergent as an alternative to a blanket application over your entire lawn.

Welcome the moisture

The last two weeks of February have finally ushered in snow along the Front Range; you remember the white stuff. While many bemoan the shoveling and icy roads, winter enthusiasts invoke images of powder days on the slopes. No matter what your perspective is on snow, it is a much needed welcome shot of moisture.

Snow insulates your lawn

Snow cover on your lawn is very beneficial during the winter months. Snow not only provides much needed moisture for grass and plants, but also forms a protective insulating shield from damaging cold, dry conditions.  Snow cover can be particularly beneficial on sun exposed, south facing areas. The absence of snow cover may necessitate winter watering of grass, trees, and shrubs to insure a healthy landscape come spring.

Snow stops mite damage to your lawn

Weakened drought stressed grass is particularly susceptible to damage from mites. These tiny insects can often be seen in mass numbers in late winter through spring on south facing structures like the side wall of a house. Treatment for both banks grass and clover mites can be as simple as keeping areas prone to drought stress watered or covered with snow. Enjoy the white stuff; it does more than cause slippery roads. Snow is exactly what your lawn needs.

Beat the summer heat

Spring is a terrific time to sod! Beat the summer heat and install sod now when the temperatures are cooler. In spring, the root systems of Bluegrass and other cool season grasses will come alive and will root quickly. The warm days and cool nights create a perfect environment for growing and knitting new sod together; ideal conditions for developing a root system before the summer heat hits. New sod uses less water this time of year. Irrigation cycles in spring will be shorter, and it will be easier to keep your new sod damp during its first critical two weeks.  During summer, watering becomes a critical issue as new sod can dry out quickly.

Frost or snow will not harm new sod.

Don’t worry about snow or freezing temperatures. Once the ground is unfrozen and soil temperatures are above 32 degrees, Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescues, Texas Hybrids, and Fine Fescues start to grow. Frost or snow will not harm new sod. Colorado spring snowstorms will actually insulate new sod and help it grow. If we do get a cold snap, it will be short lived. So, if you are considering installing new sod this year, spring is one of the best times to establish your new lawn from sod.