Category: Do It by Yourself

Winter is a great time to sod

In Denver we’ve been having a fairly mild winter, between snow storms there’s been beautiful weather and sunshine! With spring right around the corner, some of you may have started to think about redoing your lawn. Winter is actually a great time to sod! Although grass is mostly dormant, installing sod this time of year is actually completely doable. While its green color fades for the winter months, its stored energy is working hard to push new roots in search of deeper moisture in the winter. The lawn may not root as quickly this time of year, but once the temperatures start to rise your sod will take off!

The root system is still growing in winter

A huge advantage of laying sod in the winter is the fact that sod requires less water to keep it damp due to cooler temperatures. Even though the grass can look “dead”, it’s just dormant! The root system is still active and growing very slowly even in the winter months under a blanket of snow. As long as the grade is set, you can lay sod on frozen ground. With Colorado’s exceptional combination of sunshine and heavy, wet snow in the late winter months your yard will receive plenty of water, which is imperative during the first few weeks while it’s establishing. If you install sod in the spring you could be battling with mud and rainy weather, which can be a logistical nightmare. Installing sod while the ground is still frozen can avoid huge mess and a scheduling and rescheduling disaster.

Use the sun to thaw out frozen sod

Sod does need to be unfrozen before installation, so pick a mild sunny day, and warm the frozen sod up in the garage or the sun. This will make it easier to install. Frozen sod is like trying to cut through concrete! But once it’s warmed up, it’s much easier to work with.

Prep your lawn for sodding

Installing sod in the winter is very similar to installing it any other time of year. Make sure the ground is prepared and graded the way you’d like it to be. Apply starter fertilizer on the ground prior to laying the sod. We recommend our 20-20-10, but anything with a similar blend of Nitrogen, Phosphate, Potash and Iron will work! Next, lay the sod and pull the seams of the slabs tight. Water your new lawn anytime temperatures are over 40 degrees for as long as you can. Nothing helps a root system establish like a good soak! If the sod freezes after installation, don’t worry — the freeze will not harm your lawn.

Take Advantage of Natural Precipitation to Use Less water

It’s not necessary to fully turn on sprinkler systems until the end of March. Watering new sod this time of year requires less water. If you do turn on sprinklers, blow them out or drain them to avoid freezing pipes. The amount of water needed varies, but due to cooler temperatures and natural precipitation you will likely go a week or so in between watering. Once covered in snow, there’s no need to water. On dry or warm days give the sod a little water. Use a garden hose until you can turn on your irrigation system. It’s best to keep your lawn very damp for the first few weeks while the root system is establishing. That way it can grow deep into the ground and create the most efficient lawn possible! This will ultimately help you save water down the road when the temperature starts heating up again.

What are you waiting for? Cover up that dirt and get a jump on establishing a new lawn!

Go to www.gvt.net and watch our video on how to install sod.

Happy Spring! The sun is starting to come out, everything is beginning to green up, and we’re starting to get those beautiful fleeting days of perfect weather — in between the record breaking blizzards of course! Spring is the perfect time to start waking up your lawn and giving it a little extra love before the heat of the summer really kicks in. By spending a little more energy on your lawn in the spring, you can set it up for success in the coming months. Here are our 4 steps to success with your spring lawn!

1. Aerate

Aeration is an important part of spring lawn maintenance because it opens up the soil. This allows your lawn to get more of the essential nutrients it needs to thrive. Aeration also helps to reduce thatch. Thatch is the layer of decomposing organic matter that settles just above the ground. The combo of thatch and hard, compact soil are especially prevalent after winter when your lawn has been dormant and packed with snow for several months. This combo of thatch and hard soil can suffocate the grass and prohibit oxygen and water from penetrating into the soil if it’s not managed regularly.

You never want to aerate a dormant lawn, but aerating during the spring months when there is active growth helps your lawn recover more quickly and strengthen itself. Aeration allows an easy flow of oxygen, water, and nutrients to the root system to create a happier, healthier and more resilient lawn. Afterall, your lawn is a living organism and it needs fresh air just like we do!

2. Mow

After you’ve aerated, it’s a good idea to mow your lawn. Mowing helps to thicken your lawn by promoting new growth. It cuts off the dead layer leftover from the winter months of dormancy and gives the new, green grass sprouting room to grow. Plants rely on their leaves to soak up the sunlight in order to perform photosynthesis. They grow much better when there is lots of leafy, green surface area to absorb that light. Cutting your lawn also allows more sunlight to reach the ground, which heats up the soil and stimulates growth.

 After you aerate, you are left with dirt plugs in your lawn. By mowing, it helps to dissipate those plugs and can act like a top dressing for your lawn. Top dressing is when you put soil or sand over your existing sod to mix in with the organic matter, or thatch as we discussed above, and dilute that matter so more light can shine through. By breaking up those plugs you are doing just that, which ultimately leads to a thick, healthy, and beautiful lawn.

3. Fertilize

Next, you should fertilize. Fertilizing is a great way to give your lawn the tools it needs to grow stronger, thicker, and root more deeply. Overtime, soil loses its natural nutrients, so fertilizing is really important! By feeding your lawn in the spring, it can flourish and have the strength to withstand the hot and dry summer months. Fertilizer also makes your grass grow more quickly, which helps to thicken your lawn. We recommend our 20-20-10 fertilizer with iron. It covers all of the essential nutrients for plants — nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium to ensure that your lawn gets everything it needs. The added iron helps to maintain that lush green color. 

Timing is imperative here as you want to be sure to fertilize when the grass is completely dry. If the blades are wet, the fertilizer can stick to them and will actually burn your lawn instead of nourish it. Make sure to time your fertilizing just before a storm (or turn on your irrigation system afterwards) so that the nutrients melt right into the soil and infiltrate deeply into the ground. By watering after fertilizing, it activates the fertilizer and pushes it into the soil where it can start nourishing your lawn.

4. Water, naturally!

Spring is an amazing time to take advantage of natural precipitation. Rain and snow storms are common and can really help you save on your water bill while making sure your lawn is getting properly watered. When your lawn is waking up it needs to be watered roughly twice a week, so it’s pretty easy to let mother nature do the work here. Make sure you keep your irrigation system off of a timer and only turn them on as needed. You would never want your sprinklers to be on during or around a rain or snowstorm — that’s wasting one of the world’s most valuable resources! Plus, as an added bonus, the water from rain and snow has a lower pH that is actually better for your plants than the city water. So be sure to take advantage of our wet springs!

 

In summary, by putting in a little extra work with your lawn in the spring, you can help set it up for success in the summer. Aerating and mowing to alleviate compacted soil and reduce thatch helps your lawn breathe and allows an easy exchange of nutrients to the root system. After you’ve opened up the soil, feed your lawn with our 20-20-10 plus iron fertilizer to make sure it has all of the nutrients it needs to grow thick and lush before the stress of hot, dry summer. Then, let mother nature do the rest by giving your lawn plenty of water as it wakes up from its long winter nap. By following these four easy steps, you will help your lawn grow stronger and deeper roots, which ultimately allows it to use less water and grow more resiliently in times of stress. And once again, happy spring!

Record rain in Colorado this Spring

Spring in Colorado often brings heavy precipitation and cooler temperatures. Under these conditions, spring lawn care can be a little bit trickier. However, a little lawn maintenance can go a long way in the spring. Turning off sprinklers, keeping your lawn mowed, and removing clippings are all important to maintain the health of your grass. With all this natural moisture, there’s no need to water.

Turn Off Your Sprinklers

In times of heavy precipitation, the first thing to do is turn off your sprinklers! Let Mother Nature do her thing and keep your lawn nice and watered. There is no reason to be one of those people who has their sprinklers going in a rainstorm. It’s wasteful, and it’s not very good for your lawn. Overwatering, while fairly difficult to do, can lead to problems in your lawn. Patches may start dying, weeds can become overgrown and start crowding your grass, and fungi can start growing in overwatered lawns as well. By simply turning off your sprinklers during weeks of heavy precipitation, you can save your lawn a whole lot of trouble!

Keep your lawn mowed

With all this wet, cool weather, grass grows tall very quickly. However — your lawn is healthiest when it’s shorter. Mowing tall grass down allows it to grow thicker and filled in more. When grass grows tall, it becomes sparse, and the root system doesn’t dig down into the earth as deeply, causing it to be less efficient in the hot summer months looming ahead.

When mowing, wait for a break in the rain and get out there. Adjust your mower up so it will only mow off a third of the grass blades at a time. If you cut too much off at a time, it will shock the grass and cause it to die. For especially tall lawns, you should mow every 2 to 3 days, cutting off about a third of the length of the grass blades until it stands about 2-3 inches tall.

Remove excess clippings

After mowing, make sure that excess clippings get raked off of the sod. Lawn clippings can end up smothering the grass, or add to the thatch layer (the organic matter at the bottom of the grass leaf before the dirt and roots start). If the thatch layer gets too thick, it can end up blocking water and air movement to the roots and lead to excess water runoff. When this happens, it makes it very difficult for your lawns root system to access water no matter how much you are watering. By simply removing excess clippings in the wet season, you can keep your lawn from literally blocking itself from receiving water.

Utilizing the Wet Season

Following these three simple tips in the spring can make a huge difference in your lawn. Turning off sprinklers during times of heavy precipitation helps prevent overwatering. Mowing encourages grass to grow thicker instead of tall and stringy — creating a strong root system that will withstand the heat of the summer. Removing clippings allows the healthy flow of air and water to the root system instead of creating a wall of decomposing matter that prohibits water from reaching roots and can cause your yard to dry out. Keeping up with your yard in the spring will set you up for huge success when the summer heat kicks up.

What causes brown spots

As cooler spring days fade into the heat of summer, new lawns are plagued with brown spots. This is an easy fix! Typically, brown spots are caused by a lack of watering. New sod is especially prone to drying out because of its shallow root system. Brown spots occur when sod dries out and experiences drought shock. Sod will go into dormancy to combat the lack of water it’s experiencing. Once dormant, it needs water or it will die. Oftentimes, edges of sod dry out first because they are exposed to the moist air. Spotting in sod occurs for a variety of reasons, but it mostly depends on how water is dispersed around the yard. If the grade of your lawn has dips and valleys, it can cause uneven watering patterns. If certain spots get less water, even a tiny bit less, it could be enough to turn them brown.

Why is new sod more prone to brown spots?

New sod has a very shallow and underdeveloped root system that’s only about ¾ of an inch deep. Wind or hot air can cause the plant to dry out. A lot of times the ground below new sod will be wet but the sod itself is drying out. The root system needs a chance to establish deeper into the ground before it can access that water. Without a more mature root system, new sod relies on you to keep it watered. It takes 6-8 weeks for the sod to establish a strong enough root system to take in water from the ground. In the meantime, it’s up to you to keep it well watered while it grows!

How do I fix brown spots in my lawn?

Now that you know a little more about why brown spots are caused, you’re probably wondering how to fix them. The answer is water. Especially with the hot summer weather. Oftentimes watering every day is not enough for new lawns! If the grass is dry, it needs water. Especially in the first 8 weeks after it’s installed. Watering your lawn for a longer period at night is a great idea. It gives the sod a thorough drink that won’t evaporate right away with the heat of the day. It’s still important to periodically water throughout the day.

Will Fertilizer fix brown spots?

Fertilizer won’t help your grass until it’s green and healthy again. If the sod is dying, the fertilizer won’t take. Wait to fertilize until it has greened back up. Once your sod is healthy, fertilizer helps it grow and establish the deeper root system it needs. So what it comes down to is more frequent irrigation cycles and hand watering the brown spots until that root system becomes established.

Although brown spots in new lawns can be frustrating, it’s sod’s way of asking for a drink. So keep your brand new lawn happy and healthy by making sure it gets plenty of water when brown spots appear!

Why are there so many rabbits this year?

The rabbit population seems to be running rampant this year! It could be due to the extra precipitation we’ve been having. More water leads to more growth in vegetation and creates more food for these furry little guys. If their food is abundant, the number of litters will increase. On average, rabbits have about 2-6 litters per year, each containing up to 6 babies. Rabbits use grass and weeds not only to provide food, but also as shelter for themselves and their young. These furry friends spend the entirety of their life on less than 10 acres total, so there’s a good chance that once they’ve made a home out of your lawn, without deterrent, they’re here to stay.

How Rabbits damage your lawn

Typically, rabbit damage can create big problems for yards. They gnaw plants down to the root and concentration of urine can create brown spots in lawns. If you’ve been noticing spots in your yard that have been suspiciously mowed down and are beginning to brown, our furry friends are likely the culprit. Rabbits love to eat grass, and will munch it all the way down to the crown. This puts a lot of stress on the plant. If areas of your lawn have been damaged, the best thing to do is to fence off the area and keep it well watered and fertilized to help it grow back. The rabbits don’t eat the root system, so your lawn has a great chance of coming back.

Getting rid of Rabbits in your lawn

Although getting rid of established rabbit families is difficult, it isn’t impossible. Rabbits love anything that provides shelter, like low-to-the-ground shrubs, bushes, and taller grass. By eliminating areas they can hide, it makes their lives more difficult. Trim shrubs and bushes, put chicken wire below porches and elevate any decorative garden pieces that may be offering them refuge. You can also cut off their food supply. Fence off gardens, making sure fence openings are smaller than a rabbit’s head and dug 6 inches into the ground so they can’t go underneath. Spraying different odors on your plants, like capsaicin (pepper extract), castor oil, ammonium salts, or predator urine can also help! However, it must be reapplied after every watering or rain. It’s also smart to utilize your pets. Get your dogs to chase the rabbits, or let your cat outside to be the fearsome predator they are!

Rabbit damage can be very frustrating. It creates brown spots in your lawn and can ruin a garden if it goes unchecked. However, with the right prevention and proper lawn care, you can get the furry nuisances to leave your lawn alone!

No more of those pesky dog spots! Are you a proud owner of a furry friend? Then, you may be noticing some brown spots forming in your lawn where your dog likes to relieve itself.

High concentrations of nitrogen

This phenomenon is caused by the acidic nature of urine, which contains high concentrations of nitrogen present in the ammonia component of your pup’s potty. Female dogs cause more damage because they squat to do their business in one concentrated area. This nitrogen can be good for your lawn when diluted. You may notice around the brown spot there is a green ring. The nitrogen in the dog’s urine causes this dark, green ring of accelerated growth. A dramatic contrast of color between the lawn and the dog spot is a visual indicator of the need to fertilize the lawn.

Keep your yard healthy

Not to worry. There is a quick fix to solve this vexing issue! After Fido has gone to the bathroom, water that portion of the lawn for a few minutes or dump a bucket of water on the area. This causes the nitrogen to dilute and has a positive effect on your lawn.  Another trick is to fertilize often. Use less fertilizer, but increase the frequency that you fertilize to once every 4-6 weeks. Fertilizing keeps your yard healthy and allows the injured grass to bounce back quicker, giving your lawn that lovely green color! When you start implementing these lawn care strategies, you will quickly see a difference in the lawn.

How to fix

If your lawn is already plagued with these dog spots, cut out the brown area and patch with new sod. Re-sodding the brown areas is the quickest way to fix this issue. You can also take a 4-6 inch knife and slice into the brown spot multiple times, targeting the areas close to the green section. By cutting into the ground you will be breaking up the root system, specifically the rhizomes from which new plants grow. This allows the healthy rhizomes to reproduce and create new, green grass where Fido browns it.

Now that you know what to do, go tackle those blasted dog spots!

Soil preparation or soil amendment is the most important step in growing a healthy lawn. Without the proper conditions in place, even the finest sod will have a tough time establishing a good root system.

Till in compost before sodding

Soil prep is essentially tilling compost into the ground. Compost is important because it helps the soil already present hold water, be it sandy or clay. In Colorado, our soils are more clay based, meaning that they are very tight and compacted. By putting in compost you are breaking up the solids and infusing organic matter into the ground. By creating space in the soil, there is more room for root growth, gas exchange, and water movement. This allows the plant to get water and essential nutrients more easily. If the root system can grow to its maximum potential, the grass can fight off disease, insects, and be more efficient overall.

How to prepare the soil

You may be wondering how one performs proper soil prep. Well it all begins with the grade! Level the soil to the point where there are no low areas that may collect water to avoid puddles. After you have tackled the grade, evenly spread 3 to 5 yards per 1,000 sq. ft. of the compost over the desired area. This makes the next step, rototilling the compost 6-8 inches deep much easier. It’s important to maintain that depth so the grass can establish a deep and efficient root system. After tilling in the compost, pack the soil back down and fine grade your lawn. The last step before final sod installation is to spread some fertilizer on the soil to add nutrients and give your sod a kick-start in developing strong roots.

Open up clay soil

Don’t forget that the most important part of the plant lives underground! Soil prep opens up clay soils and allows the water to flow into the soil more easily and closes up sandy soils preventing water from draining away too quickly. By giving the soil some attention you can create an environment that will allow the lawn to effectively access the water and nutrients and have a healthy yard.

Even plants deserve a special treat every now and then; indulge your lawn to a night out on the town by fertilizing right before a rain or snow storm!

Snow perks up your lawn

Although you might view these spring snow storms we’ve been experiencing as a drag, your lawn could not be more grateful for the free drink! All the natural precipitation helps your lawn’s root system grow deeper into the ground. A strong and deep root system allows your lawn to withstand higher temperatures and drought conditions with much more ease. If you want to see even better results in the months to come, let your lawn have the full fine dining experience by fertilizing right before a precipitation event. Fertilizer contains all of the essential nutrients your lawn needs to thrive, and water actually activates the fertilizer and allows it to penetrate into the soil. So by fertilizing right before a storm, you allow mother nature to help those added nutrients really soak in.

Snow has a lower pH than most water

Not only does the extra precipitation help your water bill, but the rain and snow is better for your lawn than treated water. Natural precipitation has a lower pH, which helps release nutrients into the soil. This makes it easier for your lawn to absorb nutrients from the fertilizer you put down before the storm. Rain water also has a higher level of nitrogen than treated water. Nitrogen is one of the main ingredients in fertilizer. So it gives the sod an extra kick! Precipitation also provides an extremely even watering and makes sure that the entirety of your lawn is taken care of and no spots have been left out.

Create a healthy lawn

It’s important to thicken up your lawn in the spring instead of during the heat of the summer. This really helps the root system grow deep into the ground. That way, the sod has better access to ground water and nutrients further into the soil and can withstand drought conditions more easily. A thicker and healthier lawn also crowds out weeds, meaning less lawn work in the long run! Creating an extremely healthy and durable lawn starts right now — with Mother Nature’s help. For a healthy lawn all summer long, treat your lawn to dinner and a drink!

Underneath the radiant green of your lawn lies a thriving ecosystem of its own teeming with life, the root system! Every type of grass is unique, with different seasonal growth habits that affect the top growth, or leaves, that you see above ground.  Root systems vary just as much as the top growth, allowing some to be more efficient at extracting water than others. Cool-season turf grass, such as our Kentucky bluegrass, Tall Fescue and Texas hybrid bluegrasses, grow roots in the spring, making this the best time to push root growth. With some well-timed lawn care in the early spring, you can help your yard grow a deep root system that will help save water in the hotter months to come.

A little water goes a long way

Proper watering during the spring months also encourages a strong and healthy root system.  The goal of watering is to get the water deep into the soil and then allow the soil surface to dry before watering again. Irrigation requirements are much less in the spring so you can spread out the frequency of your watering. Be sure to keep your sprinkler clock off when you are not watering and to turn it on only when another irrigation cycle is needed.

By fertilizing, aerating, and watering in an efficient manner, you can create a healthy lawn with a deep root system that can stand up to even the harshest of Colorado’s conditions!

Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier against crabgrass germination

Pre-emergent herbicides can be useful in maintaining a healthy lawn. Herbicides can be categorized as either pre-emergent or post emergent. Post emergent herbicides are applied to the foliage of weeds that are already growing and are visible in your lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier in the top inch of the soil and prevent emerging seedlings.

Crabgrass likes heat

Pre-emergent herbicides are most effective on annual grassy weeds like crabgrass, barnyard grass, and goosegrass. Crabgrass creeps in where the soil heats up earlier in the year and where the edges of the lawn are exposed. Colorado homeowners often experience crabgrass infestation adjacent to sidewalks, patios and hardscapes.

Stop crabgrass from germinating

A great way to combat these grassy weeds is to apply a spring application of pre-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides can be purchased in liquid or granular form. In granular form, many pre-emergent products are combined with fertilizer. In Colorado, the best time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide is March to early April before grassy weeds germinate. It is best to aerate prior to applying pre-emergent so the chemical barrier is not broken. Due to large swings in temperature during late winter and early spring in Colorado, grassy weeds start appearing in March and April. When conditions favor earlier than normal crabgrass germination and you have missed pre-emergent application, use a post emergent herbicide to eradicate crabgrass. Post emergent applications for crabgrass are most effective in the early or juvenile stage of weed growth. Be sure to spray when the temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

When your grassy weed problem is limited to border areas of your lawn, consider a 3 foot band application of pre-emergent as an alternative to a blanket application over your entire lawn.

Welcome the moisture

The last two weeks of February have finally ushered in snow along the Front Range; you remember the white stuff. While many bemoan the shoveling and icy roads, winter enthusiasts invoke images of powder days on the slopes. No matter what your perspective is on snow, it is a much needed welcome shot of moisture.

Snow insulates your lawn

Snow cover on your lawn is very beneficial during the winter months. Snow not only provides much needed moisture for grass and plants, but also forms a protective insulating shield from damaging cold, dry conditions.  Snow cover can be particularly beneficial on sun exposed, south facing areas. The absence of snow cover may necessitate winter watering of grass, trees, and shrubs to insure a healthy landscape come spring.

Snow stops mite damage to your lawn

Weakened drought stressed grass is particularly susceptible to damage from mites. These tiny insects can often be seen in mass numbers in late winter through spring on south facing structures like the side wall of a house. Treatment for both banks grass and clover mites can be as simple as keeping areas prone to drought stress watered or covered with snow. Enjoy the white stuff; it does more than cause slippery roads. Snow is exactly what your lawn needs.

Beat the summer heat

Spring is a terrific time to sod! Beat the summer heat and install sod now when the temperatures are cooler. In spring, the root systems of Bluegrass and other cool season grasses will come alive and will root quickly. The warm days and cool nights create a perfect environment for growing and knitting new sod together; ideal conditions for developing a root system before the summer heat hits. New sod uses less water this time of year. Irrigation cycles in spring will be shorter, and it will be easier to keep your new sod damp during its first critical two weeks.  During summer, watering becomes a critical issue as new sod can dry out quickly.

Frost or snow will not harm new sod.

Don’t worry about snow or freezing temperatures. Once the ground is unfrozen and soil temperatures are above 32 degrees, Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescues, Texas Hybrids, and Fine Fescues start to grow. Frost or snow will not harm new sod. Colorado spring snowstorms will actually insulate new sod and help it grow. If we do get a cold snap, it will be short lived. So, if you are considering installing new sod this year, spring is one of the best times to establish your new lawn from sod.