Category: Do It by Yourself

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Growing Roots this Spring

Cool-season turf grasses grow roots in the spring.

Underneath the radiant green of your lawn lies a thriving ecosystem of its own teeming with life, the root system! Every type of grass is unique, with different seasonal growth habits that affect the top growth, or leaves, that you see above ground.  Root systems vary just as much as the top growth, allowing some to be more efficient at extracting water than others. Cool-season turf grass, such as our Kentucky bluegrass, Tall Fescue and Texas hybrid bluegrasses, grow roots in the spring, making this the best time to push root growth. With some well-timed lawn care in the early spring, you can help your yard grow a deep root system that will help save water in the hotter months to come.

Stimulates root growth in your lawn

Begin the season by applying a well balanced fertilizer that contains near equal amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen drives overall plant growth and phosphorus stimulates root growth and devolvement. Both of these nutrients are important in helping thicken your lawn and grow deep roots. As with all fertilizers, read the label and apply the appropriate amount. Too much fertilizer will over stimulate the top growth and divert the plant’s energy from the roots.

Aerate in the Spring

Spring is also the ideal time to aerate your lawn.  Aeration helps loosen the soil, which increases the rate and depth that water can move through the soil. Additionally, aeration helps to reduce thatch. Thatch is a tightly intermingled layer of living and dead stems, leaves, and roots which accumulates between the layer of actively growing grass and the soil underneath. Excessive thatch forms a spongy mat layer at the surface of the soil, which can make it hard for water and air to get through to the roots, resulting in weak grass.

Root Development cool season grasses

A little water goes a long way

Proper watering during the spring months also encourages a strong and healthy root system.  The goal of watering is to get the water deep into the soil and then allow the soil surface to dry before watering again. Irrigation requirements are much less in the spring so you can spread out the frequency of your watering. Be sure to keep your sprinkler clock off when you are not watering and to turn it on only when another irrigation cycle is needed.

By fertilizing, aerating, and watering in an efficient manner, you can create a healthy lawn with a deep root system that can stand up to even the harshest of Colorado’s conditions!

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CONTROL SPRING CRABGRASS

Combat grassy weeds in your yard with a spring application of pre-emergent herbicides.

Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier against crabgrass germination

Pre-emergent herbicides can be useful in maintaining a healthy lawn. Herbicides can be categorized as either pre-emergent or post emergent. Post emergent herbicides are applied to the foliage of weeds that are already growing and are visible in your lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier in the top inch of the soil and prevent emerging seedlings.

Crabgrass likes heat

Pre-emergent herbicides are most effective on annual grassy weeds like crabgrass, barnyard grass, and goosegrass. Crabgrass creeps in where the soil heats up earlier in the year and where the edges of the lawn are exposed. Colorado homeowners often experience crabgrass infestation adjacent to sidewalks, patios and hardscapes.

Stop crabgrass from germinating

A great way to combat these grassy weeds is to apply a spring application of pre-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides can be purchased in liquid or granular form. In granular form, many pre-emergent products are combined with fertilizer. In Colorado, the best time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide is March to early April before grassy weeds germinate. It is best to aerate prior to applying pre-emergent so the chemical barrier is not broken. Due to large swings in temperature during late winter and early spring in Colorado, grassy weeds start appearing in March and April. When conditions favor earlier than normal crabgrass germination and you have missed pre-emergent application, use a post emergent herbicide to eradicate crabgrass. Post emergent applications for crabgrass are most effective in the early or juvenile stage of weed growth. Be sure to spray when the temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

When your grassy weed problem is limited to border areas of your lawn, consider a 3 foot band application of pre-emergent as an alternative to a blanket application over your entire lawn.

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Thanks for the Snow

Spring snow blankets Green Valley Turf Co. in Littleton, Colorado.

Welcome the moisture

The last two weeks of February have finally ushered in snow along the Front Range; you remember the white stuff. While many bemoan the shoveling and icy roads, winter enthusiasts invoke images of powder days on the slopes. No matter what your perspective is on snow, it is a much needed welcome shot of moisture.

Snow insulates your lawn

Snow cover on your lawn is very beneficial during the winter months. Snow not only provides much needed moisture for grass and plants, but also forms a protective insulating shield from damaging cold, dry conditions.  Snow cover can be particularly beneficial on sun exposed, south facing areas. The absence of snow cover may necessitate winter watering of grass, trees, and shrubs to insure a healthy landscape come spring.

Snow stops mite damage to your lawn

Weakened drought stressed grass is particularly susceptible to damage from mites. These tiny insects can often be seen in mass numbers in late winter through spring on south facing structures like the side wall of a house. Treatment for both banks grass and clover mites can be as simple as keeping areas prone to drought stress watered or covered with snow. Enjoy the white stuff; it does more than cause slippery roads. Snow is exactly what your lawn needs.

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Spring Sodding

Spring is the best time to sod because the root systems of grasses start growing activity.

Beat the summer heat

Spring is a terrific time to sod! Beat the summer heat and install sod now when the temperatures are cooler. In spring, the root systems of Bluegrass and other cool season grasses will come alive and will root quickly. The warm days and cool nights create a perfect environment for growing and knitting new sod together; ideal conditions for developing a root system before the summer heat hits. New sod uses less water this time of year. Irrigation cycles in spring will be shorter, and it will be easier to keep your new sod damp during its first critical two weeks.  During summer, watering becomes a critical issue as new sod can dry out quickly.

Frost or snow will not harm new sod.

Don’t worry about snow or freezing temperatures. Once the ground is unfrozen and soil temperatures are above 32 degrees, Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescues, Texas Hybrids, and Fine Fescues start to grow. Frost or snow will not harm new sod. Colorado spring snowstorms will actually insulate new sod and help it grow. If we do get a cold snap, it will be short lived. So, if you are considering installing new sod this year, spring is one of the best times to establish your new lawn from sod.

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Sodding in the Winter

Dormant sod roots slowly over the winter.

Winter sod roots

Yes, you can sod in the winter! Dormant sod roots slowly this time of year but once the temperatures warm up, the grass will take off. So, cover up that dirt and get a jump on establishing a new lawn.

Get a jump on you new lawn

The advantages of sodding in winter are that you get a jump on establishing your lawn and you will use less water. As long as your grade is set, you can lay sod on frozen ground. As we move into spring, we get a lot of wet snow and rain that really helps establish your new yard. If you wait until spring, you may have to work around wet weather and mud. Sod needs to be unfrozen to install, making it possible to work with and cut. Frozen sod is like trying to cut through concrete. On a warm day, if the sod is frozen, warm it up in the garage or the sun.

Hand water if nessessary

All the steps are the same when you sod in the winter. Apply starter fertilizer before sodding, pull seams tight and water the sod. It might freeze after you install it but this will not harm the grass. If the weather is warm and dry, water the new sod enough that that the water soaks through. A garden hose is the preferred method of winter watering because it is easy to drain and you will not be applying that much water.  If you need to water with your sprinkler system, be sure to drain and blow out the system when you are finished. Wait until late March to turn on your sprinkler system for the season. Be sure to cover the back flow preventor and drain it if the temperatures get below freezing.

Get a jump on you new lawn this winter and allow your lawn extra time to root before summer heat hits. Take advantage of the spring snow and rain and save money on your water bill. Winter sod that gets installed while dormant and brown will root in slowly this winter and green up in the spring.

Check out our how-to videos on how to Install Sod

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BROWN SPOTS?

Brown spots appear in newly sodded yards due to a lack of water.

Brown spots appear due to lack of water

One of the most common problems we see in lawns during the heat of the summer are brown spots. Most of the time, these mysterious spots appear due to a lack of water. Hot windy afternoons and lack of rain dry out grass, and these spots show where your lawn is drying out first. It is not a bad thing to see a few brown spots here and there because it lets you know you are not over watering. In new sod, even if the soil is damp, the top can dry out and the grass blades can wilt, thus creating brown spots. New sod does not have an established root system, so more frequent waterings are necessary.

Clogged sprinkler nozzles

Brown spots often result from a poor irrigation system. If brown spots start to appear, check your sprinkler heads for clogged nozzles and even coverage. You can test your sprinkler system by placing the same size cans, bowls or rain gauges in the good lawn area and in the area with the brown spots. Run your system and compare the collected amounts of water to see if the areas are receiving the same amount of coverage. You may find that specific zones need to run for different lengths due to shade, sun, slope and exposure.

How to water fix

To revive brown spots, hand water these areas in the afternoon and increase the watering time in this area of the lawn. Be sure not to over water. Flooding the area will not make it recover any quicker. Remember, that the most effective time for summer watering will be in the early morning or later evening when temperatures are cooler and less of your water will evaporate. Watering adequately this summer may mean watering 2-3 times each week and long enough to penetrate 2-3 inches into the ground. Your goal in watering should be to reach as far into the root zone as possible. Avoid runoff by not watering too much, too quickly. To do this, water your lawn for half of the usual time and let it soak in for an hour before running the second half of the cycle. Make sure to take advantage of the rain we have been getting in Colorado and skip watering until your lawn needs it.

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DANDELION TIME

Dandelions and other broad leaf weeds are in full bloom in spring due to warmer soil temperatures.

Ground temperatures warming up

Dandelions and other broad leaf weeds are in full bloom this spring. When we see these colorful yellow weeds all over the place, we know summer is just around the corner. Ground temperatures are warming up and there is enough moisture in the ground for broad leaf weeds to start growing. Dandelions are found all around the world and like full sun to partial shade and moist conditions. The best way to keep them out of your lawn is through good spring cultural practices of water, fertilization, aeration and mowing. A thick healthy lawn will crowd them out due to too much competition. Never fear, dandelions are easy to control!

Where do they come from

Broad leaf weed seed comes from all over the place. Weed seeds can be transported several miles by wind, water, birds, etc… Broad leaf weed seed can also lay dormant in the soil for 30 years or more and take advantage of a thin lawn when conditions are favorable or if they are brought to the surface by traffic, pets or digging. Cheap grass seed is another source of weed seed. Always check the seed label to see what you are really getting. Dandelions, which have a flowerhead made up of many small flowers, spread their seeds with tiny parachutes that can travel many, many miles. So if a few Dandelions sprout up in your yard, don’t panic.

How to control Dandelions

Dandelions and other broad leaf weeds can be controlled by pulling or digging them up or by spraying them with herbicides. If you want to remove them the old fashion way or are concerned about using herbicides, simply pull them or use a weed digger and try to get as much of the root as possible. Even if you do not get the entire root, this will set the dandelion back and your grass can take over and crowd it out. Spot spraying with a broad leaf herbicide is the easiest way to get dandelions out of your yard. Products like Weed-Be-Gone, Trimec and Speedzone do a great job killing dandelions and other broad leaf weeds. I suggest spot spraying just the weeds and not the entire yard. The turf herbicides listed above only kill weeds that are growing so if you see it, spray it. The best time to spray is in the morning when there is no rain in the forecast for 24 hours and no wind. At this time of day, the plant is open and can absorb the weed killers better than when it’s hot during the middle of the day. Follow the directions on the bottle and do not over spray. If you do not kill the weeds the first time, spray again in 5 to 7 days and they will die off.

If your yard has a history of a lot of weeds or crabgrass, this is a sign you need to thicken up your yard. Water, fertilizer, aerate and mow. You may also want to use a preemergence or a crabgrass preventer to keep weeds and grassy weeds from moving in. Keep you yard healthy and dandelions and other broad leaf weeds will come and go quickly.

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PULL SOME PLUGS

Core aeration opens up the ground and allows air to get into the root system of your lawn.

Core lawn aeration has many benefits

Spring has hit the Denver metro area and it is time to aerate your lawn. Core aeration is a great spring practice for many reasons. Aeration opens up the ground and allows air to get into the root system. Your lawn and soil need air to stay healthy and thrive. Aeration also helps get water and fertilizer deep into your root system. It reduces soil compaction and helps control thatch in your yard. Kentucky bluegrass generates new grass plants when underground runners or rhizomes are cut. Cut the rhizome and you get two new grass plants. If your lawn is weak or thin, aerating will help thicken it up. Water, aerate and fertilize. In a few weeks your lawn will be thick and lush.

Different types of Aerators

There are three common ways to aerate your yard. Core aeration uses a round hollow tine blade that pulls a 2” to 4” long plug of turf out of your lawn. This is the most common and beneficial method. Core aeration will get more air into your yard and is the best at reducing thatch. The second method uses a blade tine that slices open your turf. Slicing your lawn also helps to thicken it up. The third method is spike aeration.  Spike tines punch holes in your yard using a solid spike. This is the least visible method. In most cases, core aeration is the best and don’t worry about the plugs, they will disappear in a week or two.

Aeration tips and tricks

Your yard needs to be soft enough to push a screwdriver in a few inches but not overly wet. The day before you are going to aerate, water the ground to soften it or time the aeration with natural precipitation. Flag all sprinkler heads so you can avoid hitting them. Now core aerate your yard. Depending on the spacing of the tines, you may need to make three to four passes. If you have thick thatch, the more holes the better. It is best to leave the plugs on the yard unless you have compacted soil. Rake up the plugs to relax compacted soil. If not, leave the plugs. After a heavy aeration, you can break up a thick layer of plugs using a leaf rake or drag a piece of chain link fence over the area. Spreading out the plugs helps reduce the thatch layer. Now it is time to fertilize and get some food into your lawns’ root system.

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SPRING INTO IRRIGATION

Check your sprinklers heads when you turn on you sprinkler system in the spring.

When to turn on your sprinkler system in the Spring.

It is time to fire up your sprinkler system. With temperatures in the 60’s and high winds in the Denver area, lawns, plants and trees are drying out. Even though there is a chance it could snow, temperatures typically will not get cold enough to damage your sprinkler system. If it does get cold after you have charged your irrigation system, cover you back flow and don’t worry about the pipes or heads in the ground freezing. Also, if you have new sod from last year, now is the time to water. Lawns that are a year or less old have a shallower root system. Spring is a great time to grow those roots down so when the temperatures rise, your grass is ready for the heat. Bluegrass produces new shoots or rhizomes primarily in the spring and fills in weak spots. A little water now will help thicken up your yard and have it looking great this summer.

Turn on the water to your sprinkler system

1 – First, open the valves on the back flow preventor and close the drains. The back flow preventor is typically on the outside of your house. If you have drains in your valve boxes, close them as well.

2 – Make sure your sprinkler clock has a fresh battery and is plugged in and working. Turn on a sprinkler zone so when you turn on the water, the air in the system has somewhere to go.

3 – Slowly open the valve that supplies water to your sprinkler system. Air, then water should come out of the zone. Run until all the air is out of the system.

Check your sprinklers heads

Now that you have water in your sprinkler system, run each sprinkler zone and check for clogged nozzles and adjust heads. Look at the water coming out of each sprinkler and if the spray pattern does not look uniform or not much water is coming out, it may have some debris in it. If this is the case, take the nozzle off and clean. This is also a great time to determine if you may need new nozzles or upgrade to modern heads that can put the water on slower helping achieve deeper watering and better water conservation. If you have old metal or brass sprinklers heads or nozzles, it could be time to replace them with new heads that can save a lot of water! Contact a sprinkler company if you need help. Precise irrigation is the key to saving water and having a great lawn!